Guy Laroche AW 2016 work in progress

Paris Fashion Week has been over for a month now and once again it’s been confirmed at the very top of the world’s most fashionable cities. A bewitching mix of historical fashion-houses and some less established names; the former looking for innovation and the latter looking for their place in the fashion industry.

What does restyling a historic brand mean in 2016?

Halfway between the search for a new face – wandering in an important heritage – and the need to start over again. And this is the case with Guy Laroche AW 2016. A very popular name – among insiders and those not so close to it all – which for some time now has not been associated with a clear and definite idea.

Adam Andrascik directing Guy Laroche AW 2016

The young London-based designer’s task has been to find a new path. After three collections, he let us enter into his personal journey, which has not yet been concluded.

So what do I think of his designs so far???

Well, while the Japanese-style embroidery’s blooming and the romantic details with which he has revisited the classic aviator jackets work well; the totally grey dresses, suits in basic tintes – mainly noir -are less innovative and distinctive.

At a time when the most creative directors – for example, Michele at Gucci – are working on the heritage as exceptional powerful stylists, stopping at the mere total look proposal may seem a weak decision.Mr. Andrascik says he felt persecuted and restricted by some typical silhouettes popular in the ’80’s and he has tried to give them a new spirit – destructuring and fragmenting them, as in the case of the double-breasted jacket.

Flakes, typical buttons and belts of some models of the ’60s are replaced with ruffles and metallic shades.

“something dark, something romantic, something elegant, something new.”

Mixing and rethinking seems the right way, even if the almost total absence of prints and colours suggests an excessive shyness.

So how do you renovate without changing?

Certainly using the pleating technology as an integral part of a fabric is very different than seeking new materials to be applied on a timeless silhouette. Interesting, but not overpowering. The choice of using the copper decorations, ruched fabrics, drooping shoulders and the well-known tailored trousers, all according to a mix & match trend where graphics and fascinating flowers are blooming.