Valentino SS 17 women is Pier Paolo Piccioli’ triumphant solo

Finally there was a double debut. 

Pier Paolo Piccioli made his first solo showing  for the Maison Valentino on October 2, 2016, just two days after his former colleague Maria Grazia Chiuri. It’s certainly strange to start talking about one of the most gentle and balanced collections we have seen in recent times, putting the spotlight on the former duo rather than on just the single one. Weird, but inevitable, since we were waiting for a declaration of identity.

We are now able to say that a manifesto, or better to say two, were written.

Valentino’s summa and synthesis of a recognizable poetry. A collection romantically sublime and balanced. No mood swings, excesses nor high notes. No ostentation.

The models have walked the two floors of the hotel Hôtel Salomon de Rothschild like the handmaidens of a romantic liturgy.Nymphs, priestesses and delicate maidens dressed in pleated, brocade, tulle and embroidery without redundant abundance. It’s like this Valentino by Pier Paolo Piccioli had been purged of the desire to show more than absolutely necessary.

Valentino SS 17 women continuity and changes

So the unexpected has happened. If Maria Grazia Chiuri has brought to Dior some of the decorations typical of the Italian brand, Piccioli has done much more. He has transformed the decoration code. Those that were just drawings have become graphic signs with a precise value. Referring to a refined imagination: the Bosch gardens. These fairy-tale elements become form, while an equilibrium Renaissance is contained.

Refined compositional techniques  for Valentino SS 17 women

A refined narrative in an almost family atmosphere. Franca Sozzani and Anna Wintour in the front row. Beside them Mr. Valentino and Jessica Alba – wearing the best outfit of the cruise collection. A radiant Chiuri and Albert Ebaz arrived to support their friend. In the natural light of the hotel, the contrasting pleating immediately appear, in a contrasting play of colours – pink and red. A geometrical shape which is repeated continuously, as well as the triangle that becomes a recurring element. Strong of its value in the composition. Energetic in the symbolism. While it gives movement to pleated skirts, they become swords that pierce hearts – on embroidered bodices and dresses ranging from the Renaissance to the 30’s.

It‘s all so sweetly feminine.

From suede shoes with ankle ribbons, to satin decorating the sleeves of lightweight clothing.

Everything is quite.

As the song of a siren charms and conquers, bringing you to places you had not thought of going. Sensuality is shy, introverted and whispered. Both in the rounded necklines, as the embroidered bibs, both in deep necklines.

The girls Valentino SS 17 women are priestesses of femininity. Their tunics day or night don’t flaunt, they’re just natural.flaunt,  Just like the accessories. Small, double, overlapping. No unnecessary ornaments, only decorative motives.