Fashion critic: not everything is permitted

Fashion critic and the art of the review. In fashion critic much more than a simple description of the facts is required. It is not only about commenting. It’s rather than analyzing. Finding the key to understand trends of the season, the time of innovation and the significance of the entire creative process. Not only. It’s about transforming fabrics, shapes, colors, sensations and atmospheres into worlds.

The fashion critic has to do with aesthetics. And the Aesthetics has to do with the idea of beauty.

“THE BEAUTY IS THE IDEA” – “BEAUTY IS FIRST OF ALL INVESTIGATION” – Hegel.

When a collection has not a clear idea, the new, the step forward, then it has not reached any stylistic milestone.

Fashion critic: how to do it

You can not judge a collection or a fashion show in a purely subjective way. It is essential to contextualize it.

It is no coincidence that Tim Blanks – considered one of the most influential fashion journalists in the world – is loved because of his style. Concise and meaningful. Interested in the entire creative process: narrative, plot and idiosyncrasies. He is able to tell in a few words the whole concept.

It’s quite obvious that a review has an extremely personal point of view. By the way you should never go to overtly negative and critical comments that may result as a personal attack. Unless you are ready to accept the consequences.

Fashion critic: Cathy Horyn’s stinging pen

There are pens most frightening than others. They are those of influential journalists. Those whose dry and decisive style is able to label a fashion show like any supermarket product. Or to declare the ultimate success. Editors of major newspapers such as Cathy Horyn of the New York Times, Alex Fury from the Independent, Suzy Menkes – writer for the Herald Tribute first and nowfor Condé Nast – the same Tim Blanks from style.com.

Often these journalists are the subject of controversy and sometimes the effects are even greater. It’s the case of Cathy Horyn and her popular epistolary exchanges. The most famous are those with Oscar de la Renta and Hedi Slimane.

In 2012 Miss Horyn compared Mr. de la Renta to a hotdog.

” Mr. de la Renta is much more similar to a hot dog that a gray eminence of American fashion“ – review.

She has justified saying that her critic referred to way of saying typical of surfers in the 60’s and that simply wanted to point out that the collection was overloaded. That was not enough.

Always in 2012 she was banned by Hedi Slimane‘s debut fashion show at Saint Laurent. The cause? A comment which dates back to 2006 when she wrote that it was only thanked to Raf Simons’s research that Slimane has created the long, slender silhouette that has made him famous.

Also banned by Giorgio Armani in 2008:

“There is nothing dirty or tacky in Mr. Armani suits, but neither anything particularly subtle or surprising.”

Armani has replyed saying that he accepts criticism, but certainly not bullshit.

Anche Tim Blanks has payed his fashion critic’s weight too

It’s Jean Paul Gaultier Haute Couture F / W 2013-14 fashion show to bring the popular New Zeland journalist under the eye of the storm.

Tim Blanks wrote about Gaultier on style.com: “he was once considered the heir to the throne of French fashion, but they were other times and that time has definitely passed.”

And Jean Paul Gaultier promptly responds to the journalist saying: “There was a time that you loved my show, but that time has passed and I definitely respect it. But the Tim I knew would have never made a personal attack, rather than professional. The designer also added:“ In the future, instead of getting bored at my shows, you could use your time to do something different, for example, improving your fashion stories. If you are nostalgic of the time when I was considered the only true heir to the throne of French fashion, you may purchase a ticket for my exhibition which is held now in Stockholm and soon will be in Brooklyn and London. Enjoy your visit.”

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Steve Wood / Rex Features (401866v)
MODEL ON CATWALK
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER HAUTE COUTURE FASHION SHOW, SPRING / SUMMER 2003, PARIS, FRANCE – JAN 2003

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Sipa Press / Rex Features (1271335e)
Jean Paul Gaultier
Jean-Paul Gaultier at his fashion house on Rue St Martin, Paris, France – 12 Jan 2011

Mandatory Credit: Photo by Chris Barham / Associated Newspapers / Rex Features (1306263a)
Model Wearing Brief Thigh High Tunic Mini Dress By Jean-paul Gaultier.
Model Wearing Brief Thigh High Tunic Mini Dress By Jean-paul Gaultier.