Dior SS 17: Maria Grazia Chiuri’s (r)evolution



Dior SS 17: we have been waiting for Maria Grazia Chiuri’s debut for a long time. Ever since July, when her move from the Italian Valentino Maison to the French one became official.

We knew something exciting was coming two days ago when the official Instagram account started a countdown. The hashtag #thewomanbehindmydress suggested that something unexpected would happen. And, as we tried to work out what, it was impossible to guess what happened yesterday, September 30th, 2016.

The Dio(r)evolution. Immediately visible. Even before reading it on the t-shirt claiming other slogans. We Should all be feminist. The intent of the acclaimed Italian designer is clear. Making Dior more advanced and modern than ever. Going there where no one had ever dared. Shaping a contemporary Audrey: elegant and irreverent. Dressed in white, black and red. Leather and tulle. Wearing T-shirts and sneakers, on the one hand. Bodice bustier, hats caps and soirée gowns – ethereal,diaphanous – on the other.

Dior SS 17: the woman behind the dress is real

It’s difficult to make a list of everything an historic Maison needs at this time. Innovate without losing the link with the heritage. Amaze, without overdoing it. Become desirable on the market – also the youngest – without becoming completely different.Implement an evolution \ revolution. Here is what Maria Grazia Chiuri has succeeded in doing.

She has created desirable looks. Distilled drops of desire destined to become must-haves. Recognizable to the point that it remains etched in memory. Recurrent graphic elements appear on the bustier and skirts. The shoulder straps and elastic, complete with logo. The t-shirt with tulle and the volumes on micro shorts.

She has introduced leather. The rock! The polka dots! The stylistic dissonances that sink into the roots of modern feminism.Only at the final ending up in the dream. Ethereal, fairy-tale of almost non-existent clothes where the graphic elements seem tattooed on the body. Who cares if she managed this,  drawing from her iconic anthology put together with Piccioli at Valentino.

The cinematic storytelling at Dior SS 17: hic et nunc

The music starts, but the lights don’t come on. Seconds pass and the room remains dark. In suspense and anticipation.

The anticipation of pleasure is itself a pleasure– G.E. Lessing

When the first look goes out it’s anything but obvious. Knee pants and quilt, sleeveless jacket in total white. Austere buckles, almost constrictive. 
In a sort of visual alliteration repeat the sensations in later models. Sports references to fencing: protection and attack, typical of today’s woman.

Immediately after the liberation. The operation of rejuvenation takes place in a gradual manner. At the beginning the code elements of the Maison appear. The bee, at first on its own and then as part of the swarm. Following other symbols: taroccos, hearts and a sword.The narrative mingles and mixes referring to pop icons like Madonna and style icons such as Audrey Hepburn. The first comes to mind with the total white outfit, the leather corset and foil; the second with fringe and flawless chignon.

The Maria Grazia Chiuri’s collection has been a psychic process which has synthesized the stylistic charge of her predecessors.And it is gone beyond philology. It’s sucked the essence and returned the soul. Hic et nunc, as no one had done before.

Dior SS 17


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