Spring Summer 2017, she has always been the first starting. The city that never sleeps. I wonder if the big apple feels the role of opening dances, such as Giorgio Armani feels thet wheight of closing Milan Calendar. This NYFW edition has not only begun to show the world a part of ready – to – wear collections for next spring and summer. It has done much more. And without a great fanfare by the international press. Not only. This was the see now, buy now debut. One thing more. For the first time Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfiger and Opening Ceremony have confused and melt seasons, alternating winter clothes ready to be bought, and summer garments.
Spring Summer 2017, this what we have lost
Hot, very hot – this is what insiders told us. The right amount of party, a hint of street style, the launch of the new wireless Apple headphones and many collections covering the“Uptown girls, mirrir changes taking place in fashion and society” – Suzy Menkes.
Ralph Lauren ant the traffic alert: to be honest in Italy, we are quite used to this kind of demonstrations that block traffic and congestes whole neighborhoods. Just thinking about what happens in Milan during fashion week with photographers, celebrities and wannabes. Whent it happens in Madison Avenue between 71st and 72nd Street, in Ralph Lauren’s flagship store, it’s easy to go back to that concept that sees fashion rooting among people and cities.
See now – buy now. For the first time in the history of fashion, collections were ready to buy. Fashion will never be the same and as often happens big changes are coming overseas. Tom Ford, Tommy Hilfinger, Ralph Lauren. What’s next?
Best collections from NYC at the beginning of Spring Summer 2017 fashion shows
Altuzarra SS 17. Absolutely refreshing, the collection designed by French designer Joseph Altuzarra.
“This season is like a fruit salad!”
An idea of lightness and freshness in a troubled time. There are cherries that ripen on python trench; micro tops, pencil skirts decorated with yellow lemons – very Dolce & Gabbana; stripes, socks, belts and decorated details that seem to echo Miu Miu spring summer.
“[…] a modern story of love and kitsch “- it should be” joyous and playful, but also glamorous, sensual and erotic“.
Carolina Herrera SS 17. The New Yorker designer is famous for her elegant and sophisticated style without being too serious. Tulle and organza have always given to her collections that crisp and dreamy touch. It does not change her way, indeed. Herrera’s invitation to new designers is always the same: choose an identity and strengthen it.
Carolina Herrera’s girls are those from uptown, wearing evening dress made of casual fabrics. Not only clouds of light materials, but bulky clothes worn during the day (?) with flat shoes.
Oscar de la Renta SS 17. A no man’s land brand – cit. It is located in the transition between Peter Copping – who left in July – and the entry of Fernando Garcia and Laura Kim. In this in -between phase the collection has a high didactic value. Perfect to relive the history of the brand There are plenty of white lace dresses, a legacy with the Dominican origins of de la Renta. As well as ikat prints in contemporary and urban fabric. The embroidered tulle dresses are also present.
Not only minimalism for Spring Summer 2017 fashion shows
Jason Wu SS 17. He belongs to the latest generation of designers. His collection is contemporary and minimalist without the most annoying lack of panache. Simple lines, asymmetrical hems and almost architectural compositions are dressed in metallic fabrics, floral prints and winking details .
Philipp Lim SS 17. We can consider his collection asthe proof that fashion is turning into a bottom up phenomenon. Featuring urban pieces that have paraded several times on the road. Bomber jackets, denim garments, coats embellished with floral decorations and little details. Easy to wear. It’s his way to say: be yourself, but wear Philipp Lim.
Delpozo SS 2017. The Madrid designer that parades in New York seems everyone agrees to love him. Either the ones who love Prada or people crazy for Gucci – as a metaphor for those who love minimalism and those who prefer the exuberance. His idea of pret a porter is very similar to the one of a couture you can wear lightly. There is a lot of imagination. There are several different types of fabrics. There is always the desire to experience something new, keeping in refined elegance models. In a world that aims to be more and more fast & furious, Delpozo slows us making us wearing cascades of flowers as earrings.