Writing the reportage of a fashion show is not trivial. If you want to exactly know the intentions of the designer, you can read the press releases. For a punctual, professional and sometimes pungent critique, take a look at newspapers like WWD – that I highly recommend. For HQ photos from Vogue to Style, passing through hundreds of other sites, there is plenty of choice.
So, I’d like to tell something more. Or at least different. The point of view of a person who attended the first show of her life about 6 months ago in New York. And from that moment has never stopped.
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Scrivere il reportage di una sfilata non è cosa banale. Per le intenzioni dello stilista ci sono i comunicati stampanti. Per una critica puntuale, professionale e a volte pungente le testate giornalistiche come tra cui consiglio senza dubbio WWD. Per le foto da Vogue a Style, passando per centinaia di altri siti, c’è l’imbarazzo della scelta.
A me piacerebbe raccontare qualcosa in più. O almeno qualcosa di diverso. Il punto di vista di chi ha assistito alla prima sfilata circa 6 mesi fa a New York. E da quel momento non si è più fermata.
So, I’m starting saying that even if every designer has a different starting point, the result seem a little bit ‘similar’ – somehow – when it is translated into shapes and silhouettes.
Each of them presents a woman who is deeply inspired by the past (50s, 60s, 80s), but that becomes blatantly contemporary in materials, combinations of layers, transparencies and styles – combined and contrasted. Often the “good girl” becomes the “bad girl” and the lady-like style is contaminated with the bon ton, and vice versa.
The catwalk which has opened the MFW and my first ever fashion show in Milan was Paola Frani’s SS2014 collection. A total discovery, to me. Most of the suggestions are taken from natural and vegetal world. Flowers, prints and textures are all stylized and graphical affected. Out of scale and bright colors – from the green of the grass to the blue of the sky – are loaded and exaggerated in order to treat each piece as a work of art. The shilouttes are clean and linear and the leitmotif is that touch of chic – Botanique present in all the proposals. From hairstyles, to the prints, involving the thin and just mentioned texture .
If I had to choose one model, I would take the blouse with the macro prints cyclamen, combined with a masculine cut shorts and a light leather jacket on the shoulders.
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E allora posso dirvi che anche se ogni stilista ha un’intenzione diversa, il risultato si assomiglia quando viene tradotto in forme e silhouttes.
Ognuno di loro propone una donna che si ispira al passato (anni’50, ’60, ’80), ma che diventa sfacciatamente contemporanea nei materiali e nelle combinazioni di layer, trasparenze e stili accostati e contrapposti. Spesso la “good girl” diventa “bad girl” e il lady-like style si contamina con il bon ton e viceversa.
La sfilata che ha aperto la MFW e la mia prima sfilata milanese in assoluto è stata quella di Paola Frani per la sua collezione Primavera Estate 2014. Per me una totale scoperta. Molte le suggestioni tratte dal mondo naturale e vegetale. Fiori, stampe e texture sono tutte stilizzate e graficizzate. Fuori scala e colori brillanti – dal verde prato al blu cielo – sono caricati ed esasperati in modo da trattare ogni capo come un’opera d’arte. Le shilouttes sono pulite e lineari e il leit motif è quel tocco chic – botanique presente in tutte le proposte. Dalle acconciature, alle stampe fuori scala, alle texture sottili e accennate.
Se dovessi scegliere un capo, prenderei la blusa con la macro stampa ciclamino, abbinata ad uno shorts dal taglio maschile e a un giubbino di pelle chiara appoggiato sulle spalle.
Comments
23 Responses to “#1 REPORTAGE from #MFW_PAOLA FRANI”
I like the floral line and the black with diff weights one~
I adore all of the unique silhouettes you have featured in this post! While I’m not sure I would wear it myself, it’s a unique idea to layer a sheer tulle skirt like that over a fitted pair of shorts. The poppy-colored top has such a beautiful cut-out back, too! Thanks for the inspiration! 🙂
I love that sculpture dress! Definitely something I could see myself wearing in summer 🙂
#GIG
i love that Geometric Details dress …. would love to try it 🙂
Such great pictures! Milan Fashion Week is by far my favorite – I love the ladylike drama that you can always count on from Italian designers!
I love the way that you described the collection! xx
I know this year there’s been a bit of buzz over which designers took “diversity” into consideration of their pick of runway models. Nice to see this one wasn’t an issue. By the way, loved your introduction to the post 🙂
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Quinn
love it all
#giglove
I like the green skirt in crop top botanique chic! I like the vivid and vibrant colors too! Nice coverage BTW 🙂 It must be very exciting to attend something like this, that too in NY :))
I love the belt and the structured white blazer. So chic!!
All these pieces are beautiful! Great post ^^
xoxo
Novelstyle
Love , Love, Love all the pictures <3
I thought my favorite would be the blue dress in the sky, but lo and behold, the flowers w macro jewels is more on point to my personality. Such a beautiful shoulder detail too!
Love the way you brought out a trend report !! My favorite ones are the Sequinned Rhombus Dresses
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xx Chaicy – Style..A Pastiche!
These are some amazing pieces, they remind me a little of something from he great gatsby. I finally watched that movie the other night lol!
These are great designs. I love all the florals and prints.
The sculpture nature all white, magnificent <3 Simplicity is gorgeous.
flower dress is stunning!
Loving all of the outfits! Especially that black sheer skirt
I love these outfits, I wear black a lot so am in love with the printed black! Toni xxx ohheytone.com
I’m loving the botanique chic outfits – in all honesty, I just need someone to dress me every morning, ahaha!
The printed black is definitely my favourite look of them all!